Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Great Rack! of lamb that is...

One of the classic mainstays of French country cuisine is the Roast Rack of Lamb. The rack of lamb is the entire rack of ribs, dressed and prepped to remove most of the fat and gristle leaving the most tender and marbled select bits. An old-school Italian butcher here in Brooklyn prepared these for me and even notched the bones for easy carving later on.

The lamb was prepared as follows. The entire rack was peppered then pan-seared on high heat to provide a nice brown finish and seal in the juices. Then the rack was coated in honey to make it sticky, on top of which was layered a crust of breadcrumbs and ground almonds. It was place into a pre-heated oven at around 375 degrees with several garlic cloves and roasted for about 25 minute or until meat thermometer shows an internal heat around 140 degrees for rare lamb.


While we waited for the lamb to finish roasting we enjoyed an appetizer - some broiled Buna-Jimeji mushrooms drizzled in melted butter, garlic, parsley, pepper and sea salt. The browned butter roasted up and brought out a fantastic earthy richness to the tiny mushrooms which we served with slices of focaccia.

The lamb was removed, cooled and the chops separated. A sharp knife is helpful here so you do not break the crunchy crust that has formed. I definitely prefer my lamb as close to rare as possible in order to enjoy the moist tenderness and clean flavor.

The lamb chops were served on a root vegetable confit (parsnip, turnip, carrots, potatoes slow roasted in olive oil with rosemary and smoked paprika) and chard greens wilted in white wine and soy sauce. It was a grand dinner served with a traditional style full bodied red.


Desert was no slouch as we served Tres Leches ice cream with slices of coconut cookie and sprinkled with raw coco-nibs. Again, yum.

Friday, October 8, 2010

Thatsa! Spicy!...etc, etc, etc

Meatballs are tricky dish as many consider them Americanized Italian food while others trace their origins to late 18th century Italy in which they were a "secundi" all their own. Regardless of their lineage they, like any dish done properly, are a splendid food product to have on a cold night.
Like many recipes, this is a creative amalgam from many sources and some person twists. I started with the class triumvarate of italian ground meats found, luckily, in many Brooklyn groceries stores where there is an Italian contingent, a combination of ground beef, pork and veal (sorry, not really my choice but is standard) in equal parts in one container.
To the meats I added chopped garlic, couple eggs, breadcrumbs, chopped walnuts (instead of pine nuts), ground Parmesan cheese, some golden raisins, chopped parsley, red pepper flakes, and some olive oil - i mixed this intensely with my hands and formed into golf-ball sized spheres.


I then browned the meatballs in olive oil until dark and crusty which would be a base form my red sauce. I removed the meatballs, added garlic, onions, and more red pepper flakes then deglazed the pan with white wine. Then I added a small can of italian cherry tomatoes which I REALLY recommend for making sauces. I crushed the whole tomatoes, added some water and brought to a simmer for about 1/2 an hr. I re-added the meatballs and simmered until tender. Then seasoned with black pepper and ground sea salt.
The hearty balls o' carne and intense sauce were served with a long fusilli pasta and plenty of parmesan cheese and some diced scallion.


Such a yummy and fulfilling treat. The tangy sauce flavored by the meat drippings on a bed of toothsome pasta, a great meal. A medium-bodied Sangiovese accompanied it wonderfully.

Friday, October 1, 2010

Borscht Belt

Ah borchst! The classic eastern European soup in which there are as many recipe variations as there are peoples who regularly eat the glorious scarlet stew. This particular version has a somewhat Ukranian influence as that is our closest and most familiar source for Borscht recipes.

A proper borscht involves a solid stock made with either chicken, pork, or beef bones and the basics of European soup standards: onions, carrots, celery, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns.
Once a sturdy stock base is made, strained and set to simmering on the stove, then the heart & soul of the borscht is added - grated or sliced beets! The earthy and sugary tuber is a wonderful vegetable and this recipe highlights it depth of flavor and ability to create a hearty but simple meal.

Added to the simmering stock and beet base are the other essentials of proper borscht: cabbage, onions, carrots and, ideally, some white beans. Some tomatoe paste or sauce is added for body. Some sugar to bring out the sweetness and some vinegar for balance.
Simmer until ingredients are tender then remove from heat and add the gloriously bright flavor of dill.



The intense and wholesome stew is served in a bowl and garnished with a generous dollop of sour cream and sprinkle with more fresh dill. The ideal accompaniment to this soup is some hearty pumpernickel or other brown bread soaked in butter. A lovely salad, like the cucumber and onion salad we had, makes a satisfying and rounded meal.